If I install pressure-treated wood lattice, I have several method that I could use. I have a good idea how this system will be installed. If I were to choose plastic, I would mount the framing piece inset on the legs of the deck instead of what the homeowner did in the second photo. You can buy framing material for the plastic lattice. Also it can look tacky if not installed correctly like the second photo shows. The problem is that it won't match the rest of the deck. Plastic is nice in that there is very little maintenance involved. The problem is that wood can split or fall apart over time. Pressure-treated wood is nice in that I can stain it to the same color as the deck.
The choices are pressure-treated wood or plastic. To give you an idea of what I want to do, look at these photos I grabbed from Google. The deck is only 18" to 24" above the ground. Also it will give the deck a finished look.
Vinyl lattice panels under deck free#
I just free hand the cut since it goes into the frame anyways.I want to enclose the area under my deck to prevent my dogs from going under there to poop. I usually use a table saw once I snap a line on it and set my flip top to catch it. circ, grinder, tablesaw, snips, whatever will chop this stuff. So far as cutting it you can't get much easier than vinyl. the corners end up being cut like clapboard or shake corners. I much rather build a soldier wall with decking planks or use bandboard material to create a siding effect below the deck if it is higher the 4 foot and the house has siding on it. With the azek trimboard you don't see the framing behind it. it looks good either way, but I can't stand seeing vinyl lattice face nailed and all bowed up. The other way I have done it is to cut all the pieces for the lattice and stick it in place on a perimeter frame, then sandwich it with azek 1x4 or some azek rips. it usually takes me about 4 hours to trim out the lattice work on anything under a 30' deck. you have to hit the spine of the u or h channel so it doesn't restrict the lattice movement at all. (then what kind of fastener are you gonna use with it? White screws? buttons?) I shoot the lattice frame on with 16 ga stainless trim nails. if you fasten the lattice without predrilling the hole to be larger than the fastener it will bow up.
fasten the frame but let the lattice set freely in the frame and cut it 1/4 short all the way around to allow for expansion and contraction. With the vinyl lattice the trick is not to fasten the lattice. I guess you could paint the framing black if you wanted but I've never had a problem with a customer about seeing the framing behind it because the lattice is so bright. Usually what I do is take and put a nailer behind the bandboard with 2x4 pt, then just plumb uallty I nail a 2x4 corner post together then set it into place and pound three pieces of 1/2 rebar into the ground that is turned on the top to hold the bottom plumb. Period.Ĭan someone give me the magic bullet on PVC lattice installs that is not terribly time and material intensive? I must be missing something because it's just killing us. I have done 1x Azek frames with pocket screws and the whole nine yards, but it's ridiculously expensive and is a tough sell AND I don't want to lose a guy for two whole days screwing around with lattice work because it's just not profitable. Usually I take the endcaps and glue/screw them together to make a cornerboard, but it's cheesy. The outside and inside corners are weird connections. We run PT along the ground as a nailer with stakes into the ground and generally try to hang the lattice from from the deck fascia. It's just such a miserable product to install. We use PVC lattice that has the endcaps and the H-channel for joining panels. I really try to discourage installation of lattice because it's so labor intensive to install and the results are usually lackluster at best, but I often get stuck having to do it nonetheless.
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